My Coil Over Plug Setup cont-1

Took a few minutes today to get my 2007 GSX-R pencil coils fitting snug in their new homes.

I had an old set of Accel 300+ ignition wires down in the garage. They were still in good shape, but I'm hoping I won't need them.

First I took the rubber grommet off the GSXR coil and took the Accel ignition wire apart. That allowed me to get the upper valve cover grommet off of it



Then I simply cut the top off the ignition wire grommet and was left with this.


After cutting the tops off the ignition grommet, I also had to bore out the inside diameter so that the coil would fit. Very messy job with a Dremel tool and a 60 grit cartridge roll. After that was done, I put some dielectric lube on them and stuffed them in their new homes. Snug as a bug in a rug. No need for a long aluminum mounting bracket when they are done this way. ;~)



When all was said and done. I spent $35 for a set of 2007 pencil coils. Took approx. 1.5hrs of my day to cut up a set of used ignition wires And they look like new. Tested the resistance on each coil and all is good on that front as well.

Piecing together my Coil Over Plug setup

Here are a couple shots of something I have been piecing together & working on, here and there, for quite a while now.







It's coming together quite well so far. Hopefully a COP, OBD1 ECU with a modified OEM distributor bench test will be in the near future. Fingers crossed!



Waiting on some more sample electronics stuff from those great electronics manufacturers out there. :thumbsup: 2 - Maxim Integrated Products, Inc., Intersil & Mill-Max MFG Corp.

Cheers :beer:

13" Maradyne fan 2 Civic 1/2 Rad

Took a few minutes to figure out how to mount my 13" Maradyne Universal S-blade rad fan to my Koyo Civic 1/2 rad.

Started by mocing up a 1" aluminum bar and machining it to the rad mounting points.



Mounted the bracket with a few bolts and cut out the small area for the drain cock.



Lined up the other mounting points and bobs your uncle!



had to take a shot of the fan and bracket from the other side...



So with the bottom full bar mounted in place it was time to fab the 2 upper mounts.



Got the first mounting point done now it's time to line up the rad mounting point.



Now it's time to shave it down and give it the Chappy Aeffec!



The other top side was exactly the same.

Stay tuned for more.........................

Little preview of my cylinder head cleanup!

Well as I wait for some welding and shop supplies to arrive to finish my hood mod. I went back to working away on my engine.

I decided to do a little shaving.

Before:


After:


This is how you do a power steering delete for real...lol

Before:


After:


Still need to fill in/weld the holes and clean up a bit.

Same with EGR delete:

Before:


After:


I threaded the EGR port and I was going to use a 7/16 set screw. However, I will probably weld this opening shut instead. I will also be filling/welding & polishing the EGR opening inside the #4 exhaust port as well.

Cheers

Secondary Fuel Injector Setup

Got to finally work on my car again.

Got the secondary fuel injectors mocked up.

I am using the stock fuel rail from the 2003 GSX-R1000 Throttles.

Bit rough right now but they are still in the build phase.



The height on these/distance from throttle plate is a manual adjustment.


Before

After

Not quite as refined & polished as Kinstler's aluminum setup. The rods and injector brackets, once finalized, will be powder coated.

Civic 1/2 Rad installed into a CD5

I did manage to get my half rad mocked up & mounted.

Started by removing the stock lower rad mounts.



Drilled out the spot welds and they came off with no problems.
They are a little bit rough but with a quick sand blast and a coat of fresh paint they should last.



I had to cut out the socket in the cross member that was used to hold the A/C condenser. It was in the way of my new mount location. You can see in the first image that it curves out from the front bulkhead approx 1/2".



Had a piece of pre-bent steel that was the right thickness and pretty much the perfect contour, cut it to size and tacked it in place.



After that I mocked up the rad to mark where all the mounts were to be welded and holes drilled for screws.



At this time I heated up the replacement plate and the cross member to bend them into shape. Welded the seams and the bulkhead was better than stock with the newly located lower mounts welded to it.



Drilled and welded nuts to the underside of the upper cross member for the upper rad mount. Just have the one finished in this pic. I used one of the stock CD5 upper rad mounts and bushings for the single mount on the Yanaka half rad.



I used the rubber bushings from the CD5 A/C condenser for the lower rad mounts. I had to drill out the inner diameter of the bushings a wee bit to get them to fit over the Yonaka posts. I also had to bore out the lower rad mounts to accept the larger bushings.



Securely mounted and ready for hoses.



With more than enough space between the front bulkhead and the rad.

Chassis and Suspension Parts

Chassis and Suspension Parts



KYB struts and Kaizenspeed balance shaft eliminator kit.....

Well here is what I have been working on putting together for the last little while. I didn't want to post pics after each part was blasted and coated so I figured I would post them all at once.

Front beam and radius rods


Center Beam


Rear Beam


Rack and tie rod ends


Front suspension - should go nice with my red KYB's


Rear suspention

Accel External Coil

Accel External Ignition Coil wiring & connector

What a difference this Accel Coil made for my car......Fired right up with out any hesitation. The throttle response was right there as well with absolutely no hesitation at all. Now with that being said I also have a new cap, rotor, Accel 8.8mm ferro spiral core wires and NGK copper core spark plugs.



Here is how I made my conversion harness for my Accel CD E-Core Ignition Coil Pt# 140019. This harness is for an F22B2 external coil.

Caution:
Ensure that you are familiar with your ignition system before attempting this conversion. When working on any part of your vehicles electrical system disconnect the negative (-) cable from your battery.

If you have the stock Honda radio still installed in your vehicle it is equipped with an anti-theft system. Make sure you have the activation code before attempting this. Or you'll be paying the dealer a visit to enable your radio. $$$ you don't need to spend.

First I had to hack apart an old junked F22B2 coil with a hacksaw. It only takes about 5 min tops. I picked the coil up from a J/Y for a few bucks.

Then I used a router bit on my Dremel to carve out the back of the connector. This made it easier to solder the coil wires to the contacts.




I then pulled out the stock contacts from the connector and drilled holes so that I could do a pull through solder.



Now on the Accel side of things the coil only has 1 + terminal and one - terminal and the stock ignition has 2 + & 1 -. I soldered another wire to the Accel + wire connector. That is all that has to be done on the Accel side of things.



Here are all the parts together up to this point.



Now all there is to do is shorten and solder the wires as shown below.



Note: Insure that you make note of where the 2 positive contacts and the negative contact is situated. I marked my connector with a black marker +/+ on the positive side & - on the negative side. Just wanted to make this clear. You can see my + + on the following image.



After placing the wires into the connector your all set for waterproofing. I used a piece of tape wrapped around the connector to create a form for the non-conductive silicone RTV sealant. I used a tube of everyday silicone that you can buy at your local automotive store. Get the stuff that is designed to work with O2 sensors. It does not contain any sort of corrosives that may damage the solder connections.



*Note*
Silicone is a fairly good insulator to use, Dow BETASEAL U-418 urethane window sealer will cure harder than silicone and it is also non conductive. I don't have access to liquid Teflon or a plastic injection system. These two processes would be more professional and permanent choices if you have them available to you.

Non Honda TPS Connector DIY

Non Honda TPS wiring for maintaining Stock engine wire harness connector. Also saves from having to buy a pricey aftermarket TPS mounting bracket/adapter plate

What Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) to use on DIY ITB's? I just finished testing my GSXR to F22B2 OBD2 TPS setup and everything works fine.

Here is how I did it:
I am using the stock GSXR Secondary TPS as it already has three wires ready to go. The primary GSXR TPS does not, it has a male connector on it,

Secondary TPS on the left, Primary TPS on the right.



I took an old Civic TPS and cut the guts out of it and exposed the connectors on the inside. I then cut the rest of the old TPS housing off. Leaving me with my newly created male connector. After soldering the three wires in there proper positions Sig/Gnd/Ref I had my GSXR to Honda TPS conversion ready for testing....

Close-up of the altered Civic TPS hooked into my OBD2 wiring harness.



New TPS and harness connected for testing, I used a screw driver to turn the GSXR TPS to simulate WOT.



I ran all of the standard Honda Voltmeter tests to confirm that the TPS was working correctly. At this time I was also able to record the actual voltage range for my new TPS so I can add them into my ITB TPS settings in Crome. I don't have any actual images of the readings as I only have two hands and I was flying solo today. Here are the readings that I read: 1.13v @ CT and 4.89v @ WOT.

With the most current tuning software that is available. It is very easy to calibrate non Honda TPS voltage values to enable smooth operation.

NOTE:
If you use the primary GSXR TPS the voltages are pretty much spot on with the Honda specs. 0.46 @ CT and 4.47 @ WOT