Push Button Start!

Check this one off the list............

No longer a smoker and this car will not have any need for a 12v output socket. So I figured that this would be as good a place as any for my push button start switch to go.

Started off by removing the cigarette lighter housing and trim piece.

Then I had to file the existing trim piece to fit the PBS finish ring. After a few hours of measuring and filing. I finally got it to fit. There are 3 tabs and 3 key ways on the backside of this ring. It was a rather large PITA!

Once that was done it was onto making the mounting bracket for the PBS switch itself. That was to consist of a few bends in a piece of sheet metal.

Then a few more bends and a couple holes drilled and she's ready for paint.

After that was done it was time to set the two mounting screws (with heads cut off) into the back of the trim piece. The reason for doing this is because the lighter socket and housing were used to sandwich this piece in place in the console.

After adding the epoxy I taped the cover in place. This was done to hold the studs straight and true to the mounting holes while the epoxy dried.

Give it a night for the epoxy and paint to dry and the next day was time for a fitting.

Could have been a bit cleaner, but it's all hidden behind the dash..........

.............. I think it looks pretty good from the front.

May start playing with resin this weekend!

Stay tuned!

Time for some interior work!

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While I wait for the cash fairy to drop the money off to finish the block. I figured that I would get started on the interior.

Figure the dash is a good spot to start off.

Stripped all of the brackets and vents. Weights in at a whopping 7.2lbs

Then it was skinning time

This was a lot easier than I thought it would be.After about 30 minutes it was completely vinyl free and ready for some sanding and resin.

Had to weigh it just to see... dropped 2lb just from removing the vinyl. However, after I cover up a few unwanted holes and create a custom gauge pod. It will probably end up weighing 10lbs more.
I'm not planning anything too crazy, more function than form.

Stay tuned for more

Clean up time!

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With the intake and exhaust guides removed I took the opportunity to clean up the ports a little bit more.

Started with the exhaust............still a little bit dirty, not for long!

The F22A6 head really doesn't have much to remove when it came to the valve guide humps. I had the bulk of the guide humps removed fairly quickly.

 Took them up to an 80 grit for now.......they will be mirror finish when completed.

The intake had less guide material...

However the port itself was an odd shape. The long radius had a bit of a dead zone directly behind the valve guide.The transition from the throat into the seat has a pretty good step as well.

Once I get a flow bench setup I will spend a bit more time figuring out what to do with that dead zone for now I removed a bit of material from the front of the guide only.

 Looks like I may have to add some material to fill that dead spot....only time on the bench will tell.

For now the exhaust ports will get finished and the intake ports will have to wait.

Time to start wet sanding

Little bit of Guide Work

Cranked up the old oven to 150°C and got the workbench prepared to remove a couple valve guides tonight.

The exhaust side was a bit more work than the intake side. Now I know that if I get into doing this on a regular basis. I will have to invest in an air chisel with a 5.5mm guide bit. Too many trips back and forth to the oven for this cat.

Exhaust side removed....took a few swings of a hammer to get them out. The added surface area on the cylinder head for the exhaust guide acts as a heat sink. This is a good thing for cooling the exhaust valves. Not so good for removing the exhaust guides!

 Intake side removed, fairly easily as there is approximately half the surface area to overcome.

All ready for a bit more porting........

Next update should have all these ports ready for a valve job and new guides.

Keep the AFRs low

EPM Finished

Had some time tonight to finish the EPM cover, stuff the sensor back in and wire up the connector.

Mounted the cam sensor in it's stock location and gave the wires a little bit of added cover.

Next to be put into place is the shaft and rotor, complete with the bearing and stock bearing plate. You can see that the hole is still there for the stock ignitor (ICM). I could have filled it with a piece of aluminum. However, I decided that I wouldn't take the risk of possibly warping the bearing plate by welding anything to it.  

In the end it really doesn't matter because the overall cap covers all those holes and the bearing plate. The cap was filed and ground down a bit so that the cover would fit nicely into it.

Final cam sensor complete with a water tight connector taken from my spare GSX-R wire harness.

Even I'm not sure what part of this build I'll jump to next.

Stay tuned to find out!

DIY EPM (Engine Position Module) Take 1

Took a few hours to get my EPM started today. Last night I spent the night testing the electronics (Stock CYP Sensor) and taking all of the measurements and making all of the required adjustments.

First thing was to move the bearing on the distributor shaft. It had to be pressed approximately 20mm further down onto the shaft. Pulley puller worked like a charm to more the bearing into place. This was done to keep the overall height of the EPM down. I took it as far as I could go without interfering with the CYP sensor.

This sensor will be used as the cam signal in the my two trigger COP setup. So it's really not an engine position module as much as it is a cam position module. The 360° 12 tooth crank pulley (24 tooth 720°) and stock CKP sensor are the other part to complete the EPM.

Now onto the cutting, grinding and filing. If I had access to a machine shop I still probably  wouldn't use it. I need to keep up the practice with the hand tools.

Stock P0B F22B2 distributor marked for cutting on the table saw.

Inside shot

Not a bad cut for a 12" 3/32 cut off blade on a cheap table saw. Biggest things was making sure the blade and deck and guide were all square. That took longer than the actual cutting. It only took 2 1/4 passes to get it cut through......5-10minutes tops, cut like a hot knife through butter!

Really didn't have to do much filing to get it level and flat

There was more filing involved after the coil deck was rounded off. It required a step down in order to have a proper sealing surface.

Then it was time to fit the filler piece for that step, just so happened to be just shy of a 1/4". So a cut, rounded and shaved scrap of 1/4" aluminum plate did the trick.

No fancy O-ring grooves so a roughed up surface and some Honda-bond will have to do. Once that was cut and ready to go it was on to cutting down the distributor shaft.

There was quite a bit to cut off. You can see the rest of it laying on the work bench in the background. Shaft and bearing rolls true with the bolts in.

Got the EPM cap, another piece of 1/4" scrap, rough cut and put into the vice for final fitting just before it was time to go. This scrap was going to be an IACV block off plate at one time.....This is a much better use for it!

Little UFI

The stock height of this distributor from the base with the cap, not including the plug boot stacks, was approx, 120-125mm. The total height of my EPM is 45mm. I probably could have gotten it down to 40-35mm but that's cutting it close for the stock sensor sitting inside.

Hope to have the cover and wiring done by the end of the weekend.

Remote Thermostat

Rain again so I got to spend a little bit of time getting started on my remote thermostat setup. This will be consisting of an F22A PT3 thermostat housing and the F22B P0A thermostat cover. I will be using welded AN fittings on the block, upper rad hose housing, thermostat housing and the radiator.

Doing this will allow me to use the appropriate length of SS braided coolant hoses in place of the steel tube usually used on the back of the block. As well as using it for both the upper and lower rad hoses.

Here are a few pics of the cleanup.

Started off with a dirty rusty A6 housing with all of the coolant hose nipples intact.

Within minutes I was down to threading the old 1/4" nipple outlets for plugs and removing the 3/4" inlet hose fitting to make room for a welded -AN bung.

1/8" NTP 27 threads, both of these ports will have plugs in them. Considering I am not going to be using the IACV or FITV. However I decided to thread them just in case I ever need to run a couple -AN coolant lines in the future.

Here are a few shots of it all cleaned up ready for some bungs and plugs!

Mated with the P0A thermostat cover and fan switch. I will probably be replacing the fan switches with plugs as well. I am going to be using the ECU to control the cooling fan along with the electric water pump.

This isn't the -AN fitting that will be welded on, it is only there for representation. ;) That will be a 12-AN fitting and the inlet and outlets for the block, head, rad and housing will be 20-AN. As you can see I am also a few 1/8" plugs short. I used up the ones that I had on my -AN fuel setup. Updates on that to come soon!