What a difference this Accel Coil made for my car......Fired right up with out any hesitation. The throttle response was right there as well with absolutely no hesitation at all. Now with that being said I also have a new cap, rotor, Accel 8.8mm ferro spiral core wires and NGK copper core spark plugs.
Here is how I made my conversion harness for my Accel CD E-Core Ignition Coil Pt# 140019. This harness is for an F22B2 external coil.
Caution:
Ensure that you are familiar with your ignition system before attempting this conversion. When working on any part of your vehicles electrical system disconnect the negative (-) cable from your battery.
If you have the stock Honda radio still installed in your vehicle it is equipped with an anti-theft system. Make sure you have the activation code before attempting this. Or you'll be paying the dealer a visit to enable your radio. $$$ you don't need to spend.
First I had to hack apart an old junked F22B2 coil with a hacksaw. It only takes about 5 min tops. I picked the coil up from a J/Y for a few bucks.
Then I used a router bit on my Dremel to carve out the back of the connector. This made it easier to solder the coil wires to the contacts.
I then pulled out the stock contacts from the connector and drilled holes so that I could do a pull through solder.
Now on the Accel side of things the coil only has 1 + terminal and one - terminal and the stock ignition has 2 + & 1 -. I soldered another wire to the Accel + wire connector. That is all that has to be done on the Accel side of things.
Here are all the parts together up to this point.
Now all there is to do is shorten and solder the wires as shown below.
Note: Insure that you make note of where the 2 positive contacts and the negative contact is situated. I marked my connector with a black marker +/+ on the positive side & - on the negative side. Just wanted to make this clear. You can see my + + on the following image.
After placing the wires into the connector your all set for waterproofing. I used a piece of tape wrapped around the connector to create a form for the non-conductive silicone RTV sealant. I used a tube of everyday silicone that you can buy at your local automotive store. Get the stuff that is designed to work with O2 sensors. It does not contain any sort of corrosives that may damage the solder connections.
*Note*
Silicone is a fairly good insulator to use, Dow BETASEAL U-418 urethane window sealer will cure harder than silicone and it is also non conductive. I don't have access to liquid Teflon or a plastic injection system. These two processes would be more professional and permanent choices if you have them available to you.
