DIY EPM (Engine Position Module) Take 1

Took a few hours to get my EPM started today. Last night I spent the night testing the electronics (Stock CYP Sensor) and taking all of the measurements and making all of the required adjustments.

First thing was to move the bearing on the distributor shaft. It had to be pressed approximately 20mm further down onto the shaft. Pulley puller worked like a charm to more the bearing into place. This was done to keep the overall height of the EPM down. I took it as far as I could go without interfering with the CYP sensor.

This sensor will be used as the cam signal in the my two trigger COP setup. So it's really not an engine position module as much as it is a cam position module. The 360° 12 tooth crank pulley (24 tooth 720°) and stock CKP sensor are the other part to complete the EPM.

Now onto the cutting, grinding and filing. If I had access to a machine shop I still probably  wouldn't use it. I need to keep up the practice with the hand tools.

Stock P0B F22B2 distributor marked for cutting on the table saw.

Inside shot

Not a bad cut for a 12" 3/32 cut off blade on a cheap table saw. Biggest things was making sure the blade and deck and guide were all square. That took longer than the actual cutting. It only took 2 1/4 passes to get it cut through......5-10minutes tops, cut like a hot knife through butter!

Really didn't have to do much filing to get it level and flat

There was more filing involved after the coil deck was rounded off. It required a step down in order to have a proper sealing surface.

Then it was time to fit the filler piece for that step, just so happened to be just shy of a 1/4". So a cut, rounded and shaved scrap of 1/4" aluminum plate did the trick.

No fancy O-ring grooves so a roughed up surface and some Honda-bond will have to do. Once that was cut and ready to go it was on to cutting down the distributor shaft.

There was quite a bit to cut off. You can see the rest of it laying on the work bench in the background. Shaft and bearing rolls true with the bolts in.

Got the EPM cap, another piece of 1/4" scrap, rough cut and put into the vice for final fitting just before it was time to go. This scrap was going to be an IACV block off plate at one time.....This is a much better use for it!

Little UFI

The stock height of this distributor from the base with the cap, not including the plug boot stacks, was approx, 120-125mm. The total height of my EPM is 45mm. I probably could have gotten it down to 40-35mm but that's cutting it close for the stock sensor sitting inside.

Hope to have the cover and wiring done by the end of the weekend.

Remote Thermostat

Rain again so I got to spend a little bit of time getting started on my remote thermostat setup. This will be consisting of an F22A PT3 thermostat housing and the F22B P0A thermostat cover. I will be using welded AN fittings on the block, upper rad hose housing, thermostat housing and the radiator.

Doing this will allow me to use the appropriate length of SS braided coolant hoses in place of the steel tube usually used on the back of the block. As well as using it for both the upper and lower rad hoses.

Here are a few pics of the cleanup.

Started off with a dirty rusty A6 housing with all of the coolant hose nipples intact.

Within minutes I was down to threading the old 1/4" nipple outlets for plugs and removing the 3/4" inlet hose fitting to make room for a welded -AN bung.

1/8" NTP 27 threads, both of these ports will have plugs in them. Considering I am not going to be using the IACV or FITV. However I decided to thread them just in case I ever need to run a couple -AN coolant lines in the future.

Here are a few shots of it all cleaned up ready for some bungs and plugs!

Mated with the P0A thermostat cover and fan switch. I will probably be replacing the fan switches with plugs as well. I am going to be using the ECU to control the cooling fan along with the electric water pump.

This isn't the -AN fitting that will be welded on, it is only there for representation. ;) That will be a 12-AN fitting and the inlet and outlets for the block, head, rad and housing will be 20-AN. As you can see I am also a few 1/8" plugs short. I used up the ones that I had on my -AN fuel setup. Updates on that to come soon!