Civic 1/2 Rad installed into a CD5

I did manage to get my half rad mocked up & mounted.

Started by removing the stock lower rad mounts.



Drilled out the spot welds and they came off with no problems.
They are a little bit rough but with a quick sand blast and a coat of fresh paint they should last.



I had to cut out the socket in the cross member that was used to hold the A/C condenser. It was in the way of my new mount location. You can see in the first image that it curves out from the front bulkhead approx 1/2".



Had a piece of pre-bent steel that was the right thickness and pretty much the perfect contour, cut it to size and tacked it in place.



After that I mocked up the rad to mark where all the mounts were to be welded and holes drilled for screws.



At this time I heated up the replacement plate and the cross member to bend them into shape. Welded the seams and the bulkhead was better than stock with the newly located lower mounts welded to it.



Drilled and welded nuts to the underside of the upper cross member for the upper rad mount. Just have the one finished in this pic. I used one of the stock CD5 upper rad mounts and bushings for the single mount on the Yanaka half rad.



I used the rubber bushings from the CD5 A/C condenser for the lower rad mounts. I had to drill out the inner diameter of the bushings a wee bit to get them to fit over the Yonaka posts. I also had to bore out the lower rad mounts to accept the larger bushings.



Securely mounted and ready for hoses.



With more than enough space between the front bulkhead and the rad.

Chassis and Suspension Parts

Chassis and Suspension Parts



KYB struts and Kaizenspeed balance shaft eliminator kit.....

Well here is what I have been working on putting together for the last little while. I didn't want to post pics after each part was blasted and coated so I figured I would post them all at once.

Front beam and radius rods


Center Beam


Rear Beam


Rack and tie rod ends


Front suspension - should go nice with my red KYB's


Rear suspention

Accel External Coil

Accel External Ignition Coil wiring & connector

What a difference this Accel Coil made for my car......Fired right up with out any hesitation. The throttle response was right there as well with absolutely no hesitation at all. Now with that being said I also have a new cap, rotor, Accel 8.8mm ferro spiral core wires and NGK copper core spark plugs.



Here is how I made my conversion harness for my Accel CD E-Core Ignition Coil Pt# 140019. This harness is for an F22B2 external coil.

Caution:
Ensure that you are familiar with your ignition system before attempting this conversion. When working on any part of your vehicles electrical system disconnect the negative (-) cable from your battery.

If you have the stock Honda radio still installed in your vehicle it is equipped with an anti-theft system. Make sure you have the activation code before attempting this. Or you'll be paying the dealer a visit to enable your radio. $$$ you don't need to spend.

First I had to hack apart an old junked F22B2 coil with a hacksaw. It only takes about 5 min tops. I picked the coil up from a J/Y for a few bucks.

Then I used a router bit on my Dremel to carve out the back of the connector. This made it easier to solder the coil wires to the contacts.




I then pulled out the stock contacts from the connector and drilled holes so that I could do a pull through solder.



Now on the Accel side of things the coil only has 1 + terminal and one - terminal and the stock ignition has 2 + & 1 -. I soldered another wire to the Accel + wire connector. That is all that has to be done on the Accel side of things.



Here are all the parts together up to this point.



Now all there is to do is shorten and solder the wires as shown below.



Note: Insure that you make note of where the 2 positive contacts and the negative contact is situated. I marked my connector with a black marker +/+ on the positive side & - on the negative side. Just wanted to make this clear. You can see my + + on the following image.



After placing the wires into the connector your all set for waterproofing. I used a piece of tape wrapped around the connector to create a form for the non-conductive silicone RTV sealant. I used a tube of everyday silicone that you can buy at your local automotive store. Get the stuff that is designed to work with O2 sensors. It does not contain any sort of corrosives that may damage the solder connections.



*Note*
Silicone is a fairly good insulator to use, Dow BETASEAL U-418 urethane window sealer will cure harder than silicone and it is also non conductive. I don't have access to liquid Teflon or a plastic injection system. These two processes would be more professional and permanent choices if you have them available to you.

Non Honda TPS Connector DIY

Non Honda TPS wiring for maintaining Stock engine wire harness connector. Also saves from having to buy a pricey aftermarket TPS mounting bracket/adapter plate

What Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) to use on DIY ITB's? I just finished testing my GSXR to F22B2 OBD2 TPS setup and everything works fine.

Here is how I did it:
I am using the stock GSXR Secondary TPS as it already has three wires ready to go. The primary GSXR TPS does not, it has a male connector on it,

Secondary TPS on the left, Primary TPS on the right.



I took an old Civic TPS and cut the guts out of it and exposed the connectors on the inside. I then cut the rest of the old TPS housing off. Leaving me with my newly created male connector. After soldering the three wires in there proper positions Sig/Gnd/Ref I had my GSXR to Honda TPS conversion ready for testing....

Close-up of the altered Civic TPS hooked into my OBD2 wiring harness.



New TPS and harness connected for testing, I used a screw driver to turn the GSXR TPS to simulate WOT.



I ran all of the standard Honda Voltmeter tests to confirm that the TPS was working correctly. At this time I was also able to record the actual voltage range for my new TPS so I can add them into my ITB TPS settings in Crome. I don't have any actual images of the readings as I only have two hands and I was flying solo today. Here are the readings that I read: 1.13v @ CT and 4.89v @ WOT.

With the most current tuning software that is available. It is very easy to calibrate non Honda TPS voltage values to enable smooth operation.

NOTE:
If you use the primary GSXR TPS the voltages are pretty much spot on with the Honda specs. 0.46 @ CT and 4.47 @ WOT

ITR Seats into CD5 - DIY

I picked up a set of USDM ITR front seats for a steal and figured that I would give them a shot in ol’Ghost.

Front seat frame only test fitting.



I'm not going to bother with a racing harness just yet. For now the car is just going to be a fair weather Daily Driver......Until we get a track or two around these parts. At that time all it will take is to unbolt these seats and drop in some ITR Recaros

Started off with completely clean Accord rails, cut everything off them except for the seat belt bracket on the inside rails. I made sure not to ruin the Accord front inside mount when I cut it off. I knew that I would need it later on to mount the ITR seat.



I drilled the spot welds off the mounting brackets from the ITR rails. This allowed me to weld the ITR brackets to the Accord rails.



The ITR seats have the inside rail mounting bolts coming from the bottom of the seat. This presented a problem in conjunction with the Accord rails. Therefore I had to move the mounts from the bottoms of the ITR seat pan to the side.






After moving the mounting brackets on the sides of the seat. I was able to fabricate the rear mount. I drilled the seat bolt hole threw a piece of 1/4" plate steel. Then tacked it to the existing seat belt bracket.

Here is where the original front mount from the Accord rail comes into play. I used it for the with the ITR seat bolt moved to the side and the Accord bracket offset on the rail slightly. Then tacked it into place.


I removed the seat bolts in order to finish all of the mount welds.

Viola one ITR seat pan in a CD5.



and the somewhat finished product....still waiting for new skins.



Both seats installed

Engine & Tuning Parts

Engine & Tuning Parts

Well I don't get as excited as some over clear plastic bags with red "H's" on them but these parts make my heart beat a bit faster



• 34mm intake valves
• 30mm exhaust valves
• 175psi single springs
• Bronzed valve guides w/ seals
• Ti retainers



• Darton M.I.D. Sleeves
• Wiseco short skirt Pistons 89mm bore 29mm compression height w/0.6cc dome (approx 12:1 CR w/milled head)
• Carrilo H22 (143.5mm) Pro A Connecting Rods.



• Full Engine Gasket Kit & Bearings
• Full ES Poly suspension kit & engine mount insert
• Ebay fuel pressure regulator w/gauge
• AEM Tru Time Gear
• Innovate Motorsports – x2 Wideband O2 sensors w/controllers – LM3 AUX Box & X-16 gauge
• Fidanza – 8.5lb flywheel & 3.2 Clutch kit
Well I now have all of the gear for my head. This is what was waiting for me down at the ol mailbox today when I came home from work.......ahhhh the mids to highs on this should be pretty sweet!




Gloss Black Oil pan to go with my gloss white VC....


I got tired of cleaning and coating my suspension so I took a day to do my V-Cover instead.



Had to take the extra 20 minutes to file and polish the lettering.......

Want to give a shout out and big thank you to Chris and his team over at Xenocron for some outstanding customer service. He was quick to inform me that the rad I had ordered was on back order. Much appreciated. Then he arranged to have the order shipped right to my door saving a lot of time and cross boarder red tape BS. Sounds simple enough but not enough vendors care enough to contact customers anymore. I didn't even request a rush or anything, I ordered it and didn't really care when it shipped.

My aluminum half rad (Xenocron) fuel, brake and oil -AN fittings (Summit). Also has good customer service and very fast shipping considering they are using the USPS.

Individual Throttle Body DIY

Help a fellow enthusiast out! Click on any ad on the right. 
You don't have to purchase anything. A simple click is all it takes.
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Wanted to share my 1996 Honda Accord F22B2 DIY ITB setup. I have not installed the ITB's yet. I am currently completely restoring and customizing the chassis.

ECU Chipped
I started this whole project off with learning how to chip my own ECU and it was a bit tougher than I thought but I got it done eventually.



My Auto P75 non VTEC Ecu converted to a 5spd P72 VTEC w/IAB enabled, low profile Zif Chipped, with jumpers, to allow for an easy return to the stock auto P75 mode. Base Mapped, set up for Hulog data logging and OBD2 (Veh) to OBD1 (ecu) wired.

GSXR Throttle Body prep for F22 ITB conversion

These are a set of 2003 GSXR 1000 Throttle bodies. Measuring 51mm at the trumpet and 46mm @ the throttle plate. Now some may say that these are the measurements for a Hyabusa, so be it, I got these TB for the price of 1000’s….cheap $80 delivered.

First sep was obviously to clean them up and get rid of all the bits that I will not be using.



They came with the secondary throttle bar still attached but not the the valves. I removed the bar and was faced with the fact that a hole in the side of the ventury would not be a benefit so I filled the holes with JB weld.

Before JB weld


& holes filled


Then I had to go about deciding what to do with the stock GSXR fuel injector locations. They could be of some use in the future so for now I decided to just leave them be. Possible secondary injector setup :thumbup:



I did not make the injector bungs any bigger or modify the seal in any way so that I may be able to add an extra set of injectors in the future. May even try adding the GSXR injectors.

Well after doing this I saw that there was a bit of room to clean up the JB weld and maybe enlarge the ventury.

So I honed them out about 1mm making them 52mm at the trumpet and 47mm at the throat



Then polished them.



on to

The runners and stock F22 manifold.

This is where I started with a stock Upper & Lower IM.



After I disassembled them here is what I had to work with, got to love So Cal car parts not a spot of rust or aluminum pitting.



After a few hours of cutting, grinding and fine-tuning. I get my lower manifold ready for runners.





At this point is where I stood stagnant.....waiting........and......

........waiting. It was a long wait for my custom bent aluminum runners. You wouldn't believe how hard it was to find 1"7/8" I.D. aluminum tubing in this city. It's not a common tube size or material for refineries, paper mills or breweries. lol Not one shop in the city carried this tube size.

After some searching I found some and have made my request for 4 14" pieces w/40°. I want my ITB runners with a bit of an angle.

Here is where it all begins, the hours of fabrication. These are all the parts that went into making my ITB's, Runners, Fuel Rail and Vacuum Manifold.



And.......

here they are with those unbelievable hours of fabricating and grinding to get the angles right as well as the curve. I had to make it so that there would be as little bend in the inside track of the runner as possible. Some may have noticed that the runners I started with were a lot longer...well that's how long I needed them to achieve the curve without being to badly crushed in the bender. The amount that they did flatten matched the oval shape manifold ports 100%. I now have enough pipe to do 1 or 2 more sets depending on the runner length. I only used one and a half of the four.

Fitted with the bottom half of my ram air GSXR air box. All measurements were double and triple checked to ensure this thing will fit snug in the available space.



Finished intake & throttles. I had my runners welded directly to the throttle bodies. The runner length is measured specific to my engines target RPM range and VE%.It will make use of second wave harmonics at this length.




Vacuum Manifoild

Now some people are saying that what do you need a vacuum manifold for ITB's are un-tunable using vacuum. Well not to step on any toes but I need vacuum for more than just my MAP sensor. I need vacuum for my FPR and my break boost. Plus I had some spare tubing lying around and some aluminum end plugs so I did it anyway.

My vacuum manifold is complete will all the factory vacuum line ports as you can see in the pic it is actually the factory vacuum housing from my parts manifold.



And this is how it sits now waiting to have my engine rebuilt and my engine bay cleaned up.

Complete with vacuum can and all stock vacuum line ports.

If ITBs aren't your thing. Why not try a larger throttle body.